March 2025

Viole Nere is difficult for me to describe because while I am used to iris perfumes that lean towards violet (Iris de Nuit, Moulin Rouge, Infusion d’Iris Absolue), I am less used to violet perfumes that behave like an iris rhizome – earthy, cold, buttery, leathery, slightly smoky – and yet are still completely and unmistakably a violet.  Each time I wear it, I come away with something slightly different.  Sometimes, the sharp, botanical stemminess of the green notes up front make me think of the opening of Iris 39 (Le Labo); other times, I get that bitty, mineralic frankincense powder that holds the violet notes aloft in Maria Candida Gentile’s Exultat. 

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Every now and then, someone very kindly buys me a coffee to thank me for writing, which never fails to astonish me (believe me, I am bloody grateful).  I decided in summer last year to put any money received through the Buy Me a Coffee button towards the purchase of sample sets.  I’ve been reviewing fragrances from some of those sets – the Meo Fusciuni one, Les Liquides Imaginaires – in dribs and drabs, but I think it might be more interesting for readers to be able to find all house reviews under one post, so going forward, I am going to try to review my sample sets in one go. 

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I’ve decided to start a series where I document my impressions of perfumes I get to try on my way through airports or blitzing through a capital city department store on a lunchbreak.  Low to zero stakes sampling, in other words, with the focus on quick first impressions rather than an in-depth exploration (though on occasion, I might be interested enough to order a sample or decant to acquaint myself more thoroughly).  Given that I regret 90% of my samples, I think it is useful to smell as broadly and as ‘shalllow-y’ as possible when I can.  

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