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Claire

Amber Floral Oriental The Discard Pile

Teo Cabanel Alahine

24th February 2016

Do you ever give perfumes a last ditch chance after dismissing them one or maybe two times before? I am drawn to certain perfumes, over and over again, not because I love them but because everybody else loves them and so I find myself second guessing my own judgment.

After all, there are plenty of perfumes that I’ve dismissed too easily to then turn around and love hard on them six or twelve months down the line, so it’s certainly not out of the question that it’s just me, and not the perfume.

But sometimes – just sometimes – it is the perfume.

I’ve owned Teo Cabanel Alahine three times. The first was a generous sample from a kind Basenoter. I remember liking it well enough, but being utterly puzzled as to the mass adoration it inspired out there in the stinkoverse. I passed the sample on. But when Teo Cabanel was having a change-of-bottle sale, I began to sweat it, wondering if I’d been too hasty to judge Alahine, and thus, doubting myself, I bought a much-reduced bottle.

Opening the bottle and spraying liberally, I once again thought: What is the big fuss about?

I just didn’t get it.

To be fair, I loved the huge, beautifully baroque-scaled opening. Still do. For the glorious thirty to fifty minutes that Alahine blooms on my skin, I swear to forsake all other ambers and pledge my undying love to this one. It reminds me a bit of the big diva perfumes of the eighties, like Joop – the kind of stuff you wear to knock out the competition on the dance floor. Gorgeous chewy labdanum and powdery sweet benzoin heaped high and covered with syrupy, fleshy indolic flowers like jasmine and orange flower, big buttery yellow ylang, supported by whiff of dirty patch and musk…..but then, POOF! Gone.

Yep, within the space of barely an hour, Alahine completely falls off the ledge. It is a bit shocking, to be honest. The dry down goes on for a bit, in that traditional, slightly boring way most ambers do, along the benzoin-labdanum axis. But all the action has already happened – look behind you and you might catch a glimpse of it in the rear-view mirror. Wearing Alahine is a bit like having the sexiest, most drop dead gorgeous man sit next to you at a bar and then discovering that he has no conversation.

I sold my bottle for a song. But someone on the Facebook forum where I sold it said something that I never forgot. He said, “You’ll regret selling Alahine. It’s one of the most beautiful perfumes ever made.” And thus started the second, even longer cycle of regret over Alahine. The minute I posted the parcel off at the post office I began to long to have it back in my possession.

And now it is. A dear friend and I agreed to a swap a few days ago – I got her small bottle of Alahine (she has a huge back-up bottle) and I sent her an equivalent amount of Coromandel. So, now, almost 18 months on from having sold my bottle, what do I think of Alahine?

S’alright.

Still very pretty, still woefully weak, etc. I don’t care about the longevity issues anymore, to be honest. My friend and I discussed this, and we agreed that we both have so much perfume now that hourly reapplications are the way to go with Alahine.

But now I think I was right in my initial judgment. I find Alahine to be a little bit old-fashioned. Not retro, just old-fashioned. And while it’s very nice, it’s hardly the second coming of Christ that some reviews make it out to be. I also still think it smells a little like Joop.

Not a big disaster – I’ll sell or swap this bottle of Alahine. But I won’t be longing for it ever again. But if you ever see me wondering out loud if I’ve made a mistake, feel free to slap me.

via GIPHY

Floral Oriental Review The Discard Pile

Maison Francis Kurkdijan Baccarat Rouge 540

21st February 2016

Oh dear. This is rather unfortunate.

I have huge respect for Francis Kurkdijan as a man and as a perfumer. I own quite a few of his perfumes (Absolue pour le Soir, Eau Noire, Cologne Pour Le Soir), and greedily covet others that I don’t (his original Oud, Oud Cashmere Mood, Lumiere Noire Pour Homme, Enlevement au Serail). I’m hard pressed to think of a composition of his that I can’t at least appreciate, even if I don’t want to own it myself.

Baccarat Rouge 540 is an exception. Unfortunately, it manages to be the perfect storm of all the notes I hate, all of them converging at once to screw with my head. And it sticks to my skin like glue (ain’t that the way it goes).

The top notes are pleasant, barely – a brief succulence in the form of oranges, saffron, and marigold that combines in such a way as to suggest a ripe red berry. For a moment, I am also reminded of the radiant freshness of his original Oud, a metallic brightness of spilled orange juice and yellow saffron powder. The jasmine here smells fresh, like a green-scent breeze moving through a line of cottons hung out to dry, and is reminiscent in its crispness of both Eau Sauvage and  Kurkdijan’s own Aqua Vitae – safe to say that rather than jasmine sambac or grandiflorum, this note is probably Hedione, a wonderful aromachemical that expands the lungs with a radiant, green jasmine sensation.

Unfortunately, the fruity floral top notes get swallowed up almost immediately by the powerful basenotes – and when I say powerful, I mean overwhelming. There is a potent cedar here that reads as wet, pungent, almost musky with that sour edge I dislike in the note, and when it buts up against the sweet, juicy top notes, the result is like throwing a thick pear juice onto a bed of ashes. This unsettling accord (fruit juice thrown into dirty ashes) is also what I experience from Soleil de Jeddeh by Stephane Humbert Lucas 777, another fragrance I’m struggling to get my head around.

The musky, sour cedar is quickly joined by one of the most obnoxious notes in all perfumery (for me personally), fir balsam. This note might make others think of Christmas, but to me, it always makes me think of sweat. Each of the five times I tried Baccarat Rouge 540, it dried down to this thin but obnoxious smell of dried runner’s sweat – I know it’s the fir balsam because I’ve experienced this once before, with Annick Goutal’s otherwise very lovely Encens Flamboyant. Pure sweat. It’s a hard association to shake.

The saltiness from the Ambroxan or ambergris note (whatever it is) doesn’t help much either. Its salty mineral smell brings a pleasant outsdoorsiness, yes, but it also brings forward that sensation of feeling your skin crackle with dried sea salt, sweat, and sun tightness after falling asleep on the beach after a swim. Pleasant in perfumes such as Eau des Merveilles, but joined with the wet, musky cedar and the sweaty fir balsam of Baccarat Rouge 540, it’s simply one drop of sweat too much. Some will find this salt-sweat note very sensual, sexy even – but it just makes me want to go take a shower.

Myrrh Oriental Review The Discard Pile

Mona di Orio Myrrh Casati

19th February 2016

Mona di Orio Myrrh Casati is somewhat of a disappointment. Mona’s style was always rich, thick, dirty, lush, and as dense as a brick wall – it’s what her fans loved about her. I don’t see her style in this perfume. Myrrh Casati is the first Mona di Orio fragrance to be composed by someone other than Mona herself, following her tragic death in 2011. And you can tell.

Myrrh Casati, while very nice and wearable, does not have any of the special Mona di Orio signatures that could be traced from one perfume to another like a vein on a lover’s arm. It lacks the almost overbearingly rich, dirty, creamy woodiness of Vanille and Oud, the dry-ice, almond-like musks from Ambre, Violette Fumee, and Musc, and the harsh animalism of Nuit Noire and Cuir. Without these little olfactory clues that she tucked so deftly into the sleeves of her work, I am lost. Myrrh Casati could be the work of anyone.

If her other perfumes are rich tapestries, then Myrrh Casati is a silk gauze. It is beautiful but simple to the point of being spare. The opening is particularly striking. A dark, dry spice note fuses with a warm, cinnamon-tinted Siam benzoin and sharp black pepper to form a gorgeous aroma of tarry coca-cola. There is also an arresting black rubber feel to the opening, arising from the use of saffron, or perhaps plain old saffraleine, and it is a smooth complement to the licorice.

But any opening richness or darkness quickly attenuates. Within minutes, I am left with a rather bare bones resin scent with a faint but noticeable minty smoke note from either the myrrh or the licorice. I’m a myrrh lover and a big Mona di Orio fan, but this one leaves me wanting more.

Aromatic Fougere Lavender Review Tonka

Guerlain Jicky

15th February 2016

Oh, Jicky! I don’t know why it’s taken me so long to come around to your charms, but here I am. As androgynous and timeless as a pair of blue jeans, Guerlain Jicky was born in 1889 which makes it the oldest perfume in the world that’s still in production today. At its heart, it’s an aromatic fougere – that classic (and masculine) marriage of lavender, tonka, and oakmoss. But Jicky doesn’t contain oakmoss, so it’s a two-legged fougere, and all the more charming for it.

What Jicky does have, instead, is a big dollop of civet, which gives it its very naughty character. There is shock value to Jicky, even today. That clash of the citrus/aromatics (the bergamot and lavender) with the creamy civet-tonka feels all kinds of wrong at first, to the point you wonder what the hell the perfumer was thinking. But Guerlain built its reputation on such sly dissonance, the clashing of fronts in a perfume to cause tension. As with Shalimar, there’s a typical cycle of repulsion, then attraction, repulsion again, and then finally, a sort of an incredulous addiction to the stuff. Jicky is habit-forming.

I’ve always had a bit of Jicky around, in various forms – the EDT, the PDT, and samples of the parfum in particular. But Jicky famously differs from concentration to concentration – even more so than the other Guerlain classics – so it’s taken me until now to find the exact formula of Jicky to make me fall in love. While researching fougeres for my Basenotes article on the top ten male designer fragrances that every beginner should sample, I got a hold of a sample of the current EDP, and bam! That was my Eureka moment with Jicky.

In a way, Jicky benefited from my neglect over the years. I tend to overthink the Guerlain classics, worrying about their details and nuances based on concentration, age, and back story, which results in me thinking of them rather more as homework than perfume to wear and enjoy every day. All my early energy went into studying Chamade, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Nahema, and L’Heure Bleue – and I strained so hard to understand those weighty volumes that any emotional connection I made to the perfume was difficult; arrived at under duress. Still to this day, I cannot wear any of those perfumes (except Shalimar) without a heavy sense of respect and almost dread. I know the experience is going to be rewarding, but they are almost never immediately satisfying.

Jicky, on the other hand, I never bothered to subject to this rigorous type of inspection. I don’t know why, but perhaps it’s because I had read, early on in my journey, that Jicky was just a simple sketch of a perfume waiting to be made into Shalimar. So I just didn’t bother with it.

But not bothering with it doesn’t mean I didn’t wear it! I wore Jicky, oh yes, I did. I worked my way through sizeable decants of the EDT (sparkling, herbaceous, full of sprightly mischief, but with the civet bluntly exposed, creating a sharply vomitous aroma that I never truly warmed to), the vintage PDT (less civet, funnily enough, and a more classical lavender fougere feel to it which made it perfect for casual beach wear), and a few samples of the modern pure parfum (round, sensual, civet-heavy, truly more oriental in feel than fougere). I enjoyed my small bits of Jicky without ever once feeling to need to own a full bottle of it.

That is, until I discovered Jicky EDP. Jicky in EDP format is the perfect version for me, and I realized very quickly that I would need a whole bottle of it. There is far more civet in the EDP than in the EDT, but it is far better folded into the creamy vanilla and herbs, so it smells both richer and more animalic. The pure parfum dials up the civet a notch further, but I am more comfortable with the civet levels in the EDP: enough to call itself a real presence but not so heavy as to hunt me around the room.

The lively, sparkling fougere feel of the EDT is preserved in the EDP (not lost, like in the pure parfum) but is much punchier and emphatic. The tonka in the base is far creamier and heavier than in the EDT, although the pure parfum is the creamiest of the lot, with a smooth, thick oriental base that is surprisingly close to vintage Shalimar extrait. I call it for the EDP, though, based on value and on the matter of balance between the fougere and animalic elements.

So there it is. Since I’ve gotten my bottle of Jicky, I’ve been wearing it almost every day. It is humble and naturally good-looking, like a well-cut pair of blue jeans. I find it as satisfying as Shalimar but far more versatile and androgynous. It’s funny, but the Guerlains I’ve ignored the most, like Jicky and Apres L’Ondee, are the ones I ultimately find the most rewarding to wear when I have nothing to prove to anyone but myself.

Amber Iris Leather Review

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

13th February 2016

I like Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche, but I have to admit that the opening smells more like a byproduct of the petroleum industry than a perfume. Something plasticky and greasy in the top notes suggests Vaseline to me, or perhaps pleather. I don’t find this unpleasant, merely a little unsettling, especially when mixed with the sickly, biscuity undertone of the amber underneath.

The mental image: a prostitute at the Bunny Ranch, Nevada, at 2:30 in the afternoon, a big dollop of lubricant making a snail’s trail down the inside of her left thigh while a man in Stetsons huffs and puffs on top of her. The man’s breath smells like biscuit crumbs – he hasn’t washed his teeth. Bored, she turns her head to admire her new white pleather knee-highs, up around her ears now and close enough for inspection. Squeak-squeak goes the pleather with every thrust.

Biscuits, syrup, Vaseline, pleather. Stale cigarette smoke mingling with the powerfully sweet Victoria’s Secret Amber Romance body lotion she applied that morning.

The texture of the perfume is both dry-harsh and syrupy-sweet, resulting in an interesting pulling apart motion in the fabric, like honey rubbed against the grain of a plank of wood. The syrupy white amber is thickly poured, but clashes against the parched powder of benzoin. The resin sticks in my craw and the syrup cloys. It’s too intense, this feeling. The only other perfume that mimics this effect is Byredo’s 1996.

The discordant harmony of the birch tar, the amber, and the iris produces something of a similar push-pull feeling within me: I like it, and then I like it not. Each time I wear this fragrance, it’s like plucking out petals and never knowing whether you’re going to end up. Sometimes, I find the thought of the ride quite exciting. Sometimes, the thought of it exhausts me. Either way, like the Bunny Girl’s client, it always lasts way longer than I want it to.

Amber Floral Oriental Independent Perfumery Leather Oriental Resins Suede

Hiram Green Voyage

2nd February 2016

Hiram Green Voyage has an opening that is both strange and familiar to me. It features a sour (but also candied) citrus note dusted so thickly with the powder of a saffron-like spice that it doesn’t register as fresh or sharp the way hesperidic notes normally do. The effect is of a golden sun shining through a dust cloud of vanilla and spice, with something bright lurking underneath.

Sometimes I spray this on and I get a hint of the tannic peach skin, moss, and spices from Shangri La, and it’s like unwrapping a tiny sliver of chypre hidden in the folds of a dusty, oriental brocade. Sometimes I get no fruit, but a rubbery suede. It is murky and intimate, like the smell of a moist wrist directly under a rubber watch.

Very beautiful and very familiar. Where do I know this scent from?

Immediately, I race off through the library of smells in my brain to see if I can place it, but it remains frustratingly out of reach. I don’t think it is a perfume that I’m remembering so much as a chord in a larger orchestra of smell. Or maybe it’s the whole orchestra of a smell funneled through one chord, I don’t know.

The best I can do is say that the opening has an interesting dissonance to it that reminds of the older Guerlains – Jicky perhaps most of all, with its stomach-churning clash of cymbals between the fresh, clean lavender and the rich, civet-soaked vanilla crème. But there is also the dark rye bourbon bitterness of Mitsouko’s cooked peach skin. Voyage is much simpler and more direct than these perfumes, of course, but it shares with them the impression of a ribbon of bright gold slicing through plush velvet darkness.

The dry down only confirms the familiarity (and the appeal) of this style of retro perfumery – it is a warm, luscious vanilla-amber, heavily laced with what seems to me to be a heavy dose of heliotrope and perhaps orange blossom, although these notes are not listed. It has something of the spicy, floral vanilla feel of L’Heure Bleue, albeit less pastry-like in tone and more tending towards the more resinous, cinnamon-inflected Tolu or Peru balsams. I have to admit that I do not pick up on much of the patchouli – to my nose, if it’s there, then it is only there to add shade and earth to the vanillic dry down.

In a way, Voyage reminds me of Ciel de Gum, by Maison Francis Kurkdijan, not for any similarity in the way they smell necessarily, but for the retro manner in which they present the vanilla note – not clean or sweet, but fudgy with spice, civet and indolic flowers. There is a close, intimate feel to vanillas like this that recall human skin to skin contact. Voyage, Ciel de Gum, Opus 1144 (UNUM), and even Musc Ravaguer all hark back to that Guerlain-like clash between a bright, aromatic side (lavender, bergamot, cloves, cinnamon) and a dark, velvety side ( vanilla, musks, indolic flowers, and civet).

It’s this clash what makes Jicky, L’Heure Bleue, and Shalimar such masterpieces even today – at first so repellent and odd that wonder what kind of drugs the perfumer was taking, and then everything suddenly “works” in the perfume and you think it’s great – addicting almost. Hiram Green’s Voyage has that clash down nicely, and this is why it works. I love this perfume because it gives me a taste of what I love about the classics but in a stripped-down, more legible format that doesn’t make me feel as if I am wearing an entire history of grand perfume on my back. Which is sometimes what I want.

Green Floral Suede

Histoires de Parfums Olympia Music Hall

30th January 2016

Histoires de Parfums Olympia Music Hall is such a weird little perfume. I don’t hear much about it, so I’m guessing it’s rather a round-peg-in-a-square-hole kind of fragrance for the line – too abstract to describe in three words or less to rushed customers, but not weird enough for perfumistas to latch onto and champion as an example of the fifth art, or whatever nth art perfumery is supposed to be. I mean, it’s weird, but it’s not M/Mink weird or Humiecki & Graf weird.

They’ve changed it now, but the picture for suede on Fragrantica used to be a pile of three or four suede carpets, folded back so that you could see their rubber backing. I always found that image hilarious in its honesty. My guess is that this image was far too Proletarian for perfumers, who would far rather we imagine the suede notes in their perfumes to look like the softest grey suede cushions in an upmarket hotel on Cap d’Antibes rather than a carpet salesroom in Leeds (I imagine Roja Dove writing in anguish, “Please, mon cher monsieur Knezevic, it hurts my eyes so…..”).

Anyway, Histoires de Parfums Olympia Music Hall makes me laugh because it smells very much like the rubber backing to the suede carpets in the original Fragrantica image – and I like these little moments of intellectual honesty I glimpse in perfumes here and there. Olympia Music Hall is not afraid to call a suede carpet a suede carpet. And I’m sure that it would cause Roja Dove’s nostrils to flare.

Suede perfumes are mostly abstract affairs, for me – kind of like leather, but without the ISQ bitterness, and kind of like cashmere, but without the bonelessness. I suppose if I were to try to define the difference between leather and suede, I’d say there are rubbed out lines to suede that aren’t present in the tougher, clearer leather note. Olympia Music Hall takes the softness of suede and gives it the rubber backing of a suede carpet.

I’m sorry – I’m not adequately describing how sexy this is. I wouldn’t blame you, with all the talk of suede carpets and rubber (unless of course that does sound sexy to you). But Olympia Hall is deeply odd, and therefore strangely sexy. It’s an offbeat little mixture.

That saffron-led rubber and suede accord forms the beating heart of the fragrance, but I’ve left out the sparkling citrus notes at the top and the weird mélange of soapy, almost twee florals (peony, freesia, and lilac) which manage to massage this thing into something both abstract and likeable. Kind of like the soapy, hand wash-like peony note in Dzghonka adds to its sense of mystery rather than making it seem schoolmarmish and old-fashioned.

And there’s a hefty dose of something animalic here too – not just the skin-like suede notes, but a rather sweaty, carnal musk and a dank patchouli, all very suggestive and torrid. The base relies on an opulent frankincense that manages not to smell Church-y or smoky, but rather like the waxy, cold, and rather soapy smell of the unlit, raw resin.

If smelling like rubber, suede, snuffed-out candles, cold wax, handsoap, unlit resins, and the posy of flowers held for too long in the sweaty hands of an Austrian milkmaid sounds good to you, then give the totally odd but not objectionably weird Olympia Music Hall a fighting chance.

Books

The Only Ten Books I’ll Ever Need

18th January 2016

I got married at age 28 and had my first child at age 34. Every now and then, my mother will wonder aloud, “What the hell were you guys doing for six whole years?”

Yes, well, Mother, what we were doing, in fact, was having fun. Enjoying life and our (then) considerable disposable incomes. Drinking whole cups of coffee without having to reheat them even once. Watching 24 box sets on a loop until we had finished off a whole season in one day. Playing darts in our pajamas. Drinking shitloads of wine. Concocting and then cooking elaborate meals featuring dishes such as tarte tatin and duck confit. Oh my God, having SEX, even.

Those were the days.

Anyway, now that I have two kids and no income at all, I look back upon those halcyon days and what I actually miss the most is the reading. Because I was a reader. Back in those days, I would embark upon a theme – the Great American Novels, the Russian Masters, or German post-war daftpunkt werkit (I may have made the last one up) – put in a massive Amazon order, and then spend days and days on the couch reading them all from front to cover. I slipped under the covers with these books, luxuriated in them, losing whole nights to them, while my lovely husband (then still doting and adoring) ferried fresh coffee, pancakes, or glasses of wine to me for sustenance.

When I had my first child, the reading stopped (as did the ferrying of sweetmeats). At first, I brushed it off as temporary and congratulated myself for getting through a whole issue of Hello without nodding off. Now, though, two kids in, I have to confess that the Swiss cheese-like state of my grey matter might be permanent. I have to come to terms with the fact that I might not even read another new book ever again.

But that doesn’t mean that I am going to settle for “easy” reads, which more often than not translates to trashy or badly-written (Fifty Shades of Grey, I am looking at you). There’s a line below which I cannot go, no matter how gnat-like my current attention span is. I have my standards. Hell, I even left a breastfeeding group on Facebook because I internally combusted with rage every time someone demonstrated their mistaken belief that “your” is the declension of “you are”.

So here’s what I’ve decided. If I never read a new book again in my life, that’s ok. I give myself permission to stop feeling guilty about not reading enough new stuff. I’ve read enough books for me to be fine with reading and re-reading the books I already have and love. For the sake of round numbers, let’s go with 10. Naturally, for such a reductionist task, one must have a strict list of criteria. Here are mine. The books on this list are all:

  • So rich and packed with detail that they allow you to discover new aspects of the characters and situations every time you read them.
  • Easy to read but not intellectually weak or facile.
  • Possessed of the power to evoke strong emotions and feelings.
  • Tilting towards the fat and descriptive, rather than thin and minimalist in style, so that you feel nourished upon their consumption.

In no particular order, therefore, here are the ten books that I’d be happy to read for the rest of my life, even if I couldn’t read any others or any new books.

 

The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas

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I love Alexandre Dumas because he was such a total whore – he’d sit down at his typewriter and bang out 10,000 words a day because a magazine was paying him, he never read back what he wrote, cheerfully stole or “borrowed” the writings of peers and ghostwriters for his own novels, and had 40 different women on the go (true fact). His joie de vivre and appetite for life spilled out into his fat, “twisty” novels, many of which were serialized in magazines and contained cliffhangers to keep subscribers excited for the next installment. Basically, if Dumas were alive today, he’d be writing for Coronation Street, or one of those Columbian telenovelas.

Of the copious Dumas “oeuvre” (although I hesitate to call what are essentially a collection of pot boiler adventure novels by that high-fallutin’ term), the Count of Monte Cristo is by far my favorite. First it plunges you into absolute misery as you live alongside the unlucky Edmond Dantes in the Chateau D’If, wrongfully imprisoned the day of his wedding, but then it slowly unfolds a revenge plot of such devilish cleverness that you can feel your heart filling up with the savage delight of schadenfreude.  It’s basically, “Ooh, boy, are you about to pay for what you did”. It’s 1,200 pages of AWESOME.

Modern-Day Screen Equivalent: The TV series Revenge.

Read while: Wearing the fragrance Monte Cristo by Masque Fragranze, an oily, dusty animalic scent that smells like the despair and unwashed man musk in Chateau d’If, as well as the pieces of celery caught in Edmond Dante’s beard. Eating pizza topped with lard and candle tallow, apparently one of Dumas’ favorite meals. And of course, a large helping of revenge served chilled from the fridge.

 

A Rabbit Omnibus by John Updike

updike-set

It always amuses me when I see people fretting over whether Jonathan Franzen or Bret Easton Ellis are writing the Great American Novel to end all Great American Novels, because guys, sorry, but John Updike already beat you to it.

I first read this when I was 11 or 12 – the first three novels in what would much later become a tetralogy of novels (Rabbit Run, Rabbit Redux, Rabbit is Rich, and Rabbit at Rest) came bound in one volume that was, oddly, always lodged behind the pipes of our upstairs toilet. Dying for some peace in a household of rowdy Irish brothers, I would lock myself in the toilet and get lost for hours in the world of Harry ‘Rabbit’ Angstrom, whose mundane life the books followed from his late twenties to his death in his late sixties.

I learned that nothing much happened in American suburbia but that, strangely enough, the internal trials and tribulations of a weak, immoral, and often very irritating man was enough to keep me hooked. Looking back, I can see that Updike, in laying down the minutiae of one man’s unremarkable life, ended up painting a picture of the human condition. Fifty years on, this masterful pinpointing of the modern middle-class malaise is as relevant as ever.

Read while: Gazing at your own navel, gripped by an internalized sense of anxiety that is in no way supported by your comfortable middle-class life. Wearing L’Heure Bleue parfum by Guerlain, a blue-tinted exercise in melancholy. Drinking T’ga za Jug, a Barbera-like red wine from Bulgaria that translates to “Longing for the south”.

 

Winds of War and War & Remembrance by Hermann Wouk

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I worked for a huge Jewish charitable organization (World ORT) in Montenegro for many years, and one summer, a young intern by the name of Rebekkah came out to us to gain a bit of work experience. More valley girl than Jewish princess, her father feared her becoming less and less Jewish in outlook, so halfway through her term, he sent her a care box containing, amongst other things, these two massive novels. She took one look at them, laughed, and promptly dumped them into my lap. I started reading that night, and I don’t think I was able to sleep until I had devoured both volumes.

The two books, taken together, span the entirety of World War 2 as seen through the eyes and experiences of the sprawling Henry clan, which itself revolves around the naval officer Victor “Pug” Henry. Modest and capable, Pug becomes the trusted emissary of President Roosevelt, so he is thrust into the nerve center of the war, and thus we gain a bird’s eye view of the most crucial historical events such as Yalta, the Pearl Harbor bombings, and backroom dealings with Hitler. His children and their spouses get caught up in the war, with some of them ending up in concentration camps or major battles, whose descriptions go on for 1,000 pages at a time but hold you utterly rapt.

I read these books at least once a year, and they never fail to teach me something important about the war, about honor, and duty, and yes, the human condition – but they entertain me at the same time. It’s like the trashiest Jackie Collins multi-generational saga grafted onto a history book. It is purely down to this novel that I understand what went on in WWII – sorry school.

Modern-Day Screen Equivalent: Well, it’s not modern, but they did actually make a TV mini-series out of this in 1983, starring Robert Mitchum and Ali McGraw.

Read while: Wearing Joy by Jean Patou – the pure perfume, obviously – to match the gilded, hopeful optimism of soldiers going off to war in the early years. Once you get into the second book and all hope is lost, you should dab on a bit of Guerlain’s Mitsouko, its peach, spices, and moss heralding a new, brisk outlook on the world, when all illusions have been dropped.

 

The Idiot by Fyodor Dostoevsky

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Forget everything you think you know about Russian novels – that they’re too long, the names are too long, and they are hard to read, and so on. In fact, once you get into them, you’ll see that the great novels of Russian literature are the juiciest page-turners of all time, rife with intrigue, sadness, fun, betrayal, love, sex, war, and basically, all the good stuff. I toyed with putting Anna Karenina in this spot, for example – it’s just a cracking good read, and far better than War and Peace – but I had a deeper emotional reaction to the Idiot, so here it is.

The novel is based on the story of Prince Lyov Nikolaevich Myshkin who is so good and open-hearted that everyone who meets him thinks he is an idiot. Idiot as in the “he’s two cards short of a full deck” kind of way, not the modern-day, “will you look at that gobshite over there?” sense of the word. Dostoevsky sets Myshkin up as a Christ figure but doesn’t give him any divine powers, as a sort of experiment to see how a good, beautiful, Christ-like man would survive in our artificial and mendacious world today.

As you can imagine, we royally fuck it up.

I love this novel because it bitchslaps me in my moral center. Its message is so excoriating that I am surprised the book doesn’t burn through my hands every time I read it. Dostoevsky sets out “to depict a completely beautiful human being” and then allows modern society to tear him apart like a pack of wolves. Something about that is compelling, like rubbernecking at a car accident site.

Read while: Eating caviar and sour cream on blinis. Wearing Ambre Russe by Parfum d’Empire, a leathery amber perfume so soaked in vodka and champagne, your family will start hiding the booze from you.

 

Gone with the Wind by Margaret Mitchell

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The movie is excellent but the book is miles better. Forget the Scarlett O’Hara you think you know and love from the silver screen – this Scarlett is much tougher and more complex. The terrifying social fall of the O’Hara’s against the backdrop of the war in the south and Sherman’s March to the Sea is depicted with such texture in the book that Scarlett’s grasping at survival at all costs makes more sense. In the movie, at times, she just seems like a pretty girl being given her comeuppance, but in the book, it is easier to admire the true grit that emerges in her because we are able to see exactly how sharp the rock is that’s being pressed down on her white little neck.

The sheer range of the historical and social research that went into the novel doesn’t quite translate to the screen, and so provides only a 2D setting against which the character of Scarlett unfolds, thus compressing her into a series of “moments” that only tell part of the story – those flashing green eyes, the dress made out of curtains, being cruel to Mellie. In the novel, the background and the other characters frame Scarlett like a black velvet cloth cupping a diamond, lovingly revealing her every angle and flaw, so that we may see her clearly. She may still be unlikeable, but by God, we can see every bit of her.  

Margaret Mitchell said that the main theme of Gone with the Wind is survival. “What makes some people come through catastrophes and others, apparently just as able, strong, and brave, go under? It happens in every upheaval. Some people survive; others don’t”, she said. The ones that survived had what was called “gumption” back then – and Scarlett had gumption in spades.

Read while: Drinking bathtub gin (whatever that may be). Wearing a swathe of green curtains wrapped around your body. Dripping wet in Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens because it smells like the wet carrots Scarlett wrenched from the cold, red soil of Tara in her most desperate moment (“As God is my witness; I will never go hungry again”).

 

The Golden Bowl by Henry James

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The Golden Bowl is the last novel Henry James ever completed, and as per his later work, it is complex and impressionistic rather than realistic (= “easy to read”), so a part of me quakes at putting this on the list. To read it, I have to relax my mind’s eye like I do when looking at one of those “magic eye” paintings, and if I succeed in letting go, all the detail of the novel rises up to meet me, like running my fingers across a sheet of Braille and eventually finding the pattern that unlocks the message.

It tells the story of two couples – Maggie and her rich American father, Adam, who are married to the impoverished Prince Amerigo and the feckless (as in “All my fecks have been given out – I have not a single one left to give”) Charlotte Stant respectively. Charlotte and Amerigo used to be lovers, and Charlotte is Maggie’s best friend from school, so things are….complicated. The symbol of the story, and the object around which it revolves, is the gift of a golden bowl picked out one day as a gift by Charlotte and given to her husband, Adam. The golden bowl is beautiful on the outside but there is a tiny, almost invisible flaw in it that symbolizes the tiny crack that appears between the happy couples in the form of an affair.

The whole thing takes place in a series of internal monologues and tortured conversations between the protagonists where nothing is said and everything is implied. At first, it’s enough to drive anyone mad, but relax into it, and you will see that the story actually moves forward and takes shape even though you think absolutely nothing is happening, and then, before you know it, you are both caught up and deeply moved. It’s an immersive experience – you see nothing on the surface, and then you dive down, and you are in the subcutaneous layer where the heart and the other organs are writhing.

They tried to make a film out of this, starring Uma Thurman, but this was always going to be an impossible book to translate onto the screen. I saw the trailer and it was basically two people walking around a garden. Yep. That’s what the novel looks like from the outside too.

Read while: Wearing Chanel’s 31 Rue Cambon, a modern chypre fragrance with a dark, almost animalic labdanum dry down that its sparkling bergamot and iris topnotes belie. Like the novel, this scent has hidden depths and flurries, sucking down notes and then spitting them back up again on your skin later, just when you think the show is over. Eating rolos, because like the Golden Bowl they are utterly perfect to the eye (and in the mouth) but contain a fatal flaw – you always have to give your last one away.

 

We Need to Talk About Kevin by Lionel Shriver

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Chilling. The first time I read it, I wasn’t a mother and I didn’t see the ending coming, so it laid me flat. For about a week afterwards, I could barely function, so utterly devastated was I. Everybody knows the story by now – it’s about a boy called Kevin who went on to organize and carry out a school massacre. Narrated by his mother, the story asks whether monsters like Kevin are born or made. Interestingly enough, my opinion on this (and on the reliability of the narrator) changes each time I read it, which is surely the hallmark of a great writer. Rich with psychological detail and irresistible “what-ifs”, it is a novel I come back to again and again.

I also like that Lionel Shriver wrote this as a sort of test to herself on whether she should have children or not – she ultimately decided not – because it shows that women writers can be just as brave, honest, and ruthless with their literary exploration as men.

Read while: Peeing on a stick and waiting for a little blue line to appear, wondering if you are gestating your own little Kevin inside of you right now. Wearing Like This by Etat Libre d’Orange, a perfume made for Tilda Swinton, who played Kevin’s mother in the (atrocious) movie adaptation. The fragrance itself is the opposite of dark and challenging – it’s an ode to the odors of the home kitchen, with ginger, pumpkin pie, and Scotch. But with a book this dark, you need a bit of comfort and things don’t get much more comforting than Like This.

 

Riders by Jilly Cooper

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Rubert Campell-Black, oh my! Riders did more for my sex education than any awkward book my mum ever bought me. A massive romp through the glamorous, bed-hopping world of show jumpers in the Cotswolds, Riders is about the rivalry between the dashing, womanizing Campell-Black and the dark, gypsy-like Jake Lowell (“under whose magic hands even the most difficult horse or woman is charmed”- SCREAMING) as they compete their way to the Olympics. Enormously trashy and brilliantly written, this is still a pleasure to read, although all the references to “dripping wet bushes” may be lost on a whole generation who grew up whipping off every pubic hair as it emerged.

Read while: Wearing Arabian Horse by Parfumerie Generale, which quite literally smells like the sweaty mane of a horse, or Chanel Cuir de Russie, which smells like you just rolled off a horse and into a ballgown without so much as a whore’s bath, as they claim Camilla Parker-Bowles used to do.

 

A Farewell to Arms by Ernest Hemingway

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Believe it or not but I once was part of a team that organized a countrywide effort to collect illegal weapons and handguns* from citizens in Montenegro. The campaign was called “A Farewell to Arms” because I am nothing if not irritatingly literal-minded. Feeling like I should at least familiarize myself with the book that had lent its name to the campaign, I ordered it on Amazon.

It’s about the life of American Frederic Henry who’s serving in the ambulance corps in North-West Italy during World War I, and is written in the terse style of Hemingway, who obviously believed that there was a tax on adjectives and who probably would have done away with the indefinite article if allowed free reign. Although I’m not a big fan of this type of butch, muscular writing, I admit that this is a story that needs to be told with a stiff upper lip.

The ending is so bleak that I always feel like throwing the book at someone when I’m done. And when I was watching the Silver Linings Playbook (the movie) and a character who’s reading it actually does throw the book out the window, I felt a thrill of recognition – yeah, this book is poison. But I read it over and over again, and it’s like picking at a scab – I have a weird compulsion to do it.

*Originally we thought we’d just be collecting the various handguns that the State had distributed to citizens during the last war for, er, self-defense, but we ended up collecting a fair number of rocket launchers and ground-to-air missile launchers too. Oh, and a worrying amount of unexploded ordinances and hand grenades, some of them stacked five deep under grandma’s bed. Lovely.

Read while: Drinking a metal cup of “rusty wine” (open a bottle of wine and let is slowly oxidize in a hot kitchen for four days before consuming) in sympathy with the rotten-tasting wine our hero Henry and his mates have to drink on the frontlines. Playing Paint it Black by the Rolling Stones on a loop. Wearing Black Aoud by Montale and generally reeking of iodine, bandaids, and bitter despair.

 

Beach Music by Pat Conroy

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Confession time: the more I re-read this novel, the more overblown and ridiculous it appears to me. But despite my misgivings, it still gives me plenty of meat to chow down on every time I turn to it, covering as it does a multi-generational themes such as holocaust survival, suicide, family trauma, the universal problem of mothers, and the in-jokes, petty grievances, and watertight loyalty that binds families together even in their worst moments. Flitting between Rome, Italy, and Charleston, South Carolina, the story follows Jack McCall and his attempts to escape his gothic southern past and his wife’s recent suicide.

When I read this book, my nose runs, I howl with laughter, I curse, I cry great big wracking sobs that make my ribs ache….great literature this might not be, but it sure gets my engine running, every time. Of course, the love with which Pat Conroy paints his beautiful south makes it one of the main characters in the book – and it’s for this reason that I’ve always longed to visit South Carolina and the Low Country. I’ve read everything he’s written, but this is the one that totally gets me.

Read while: Eating shrimp and grits on your lap, to be followed by a pot of crawdaddies, allowing butter to run down your face and arms onto the pages of the book. Drinking a glass of sour mash bourbon or better yet, moonshine your daddy brewed in the backyard last summer. I honestly don’t know what any of this stuff is, but Pat Conroy makes it all sound so good. Wearing Kiste by Slumberhouse, a boozy bourbon and peach perfume with strong undercurrent of southern tobacco leaves and iced tea.

Iris Leather Suede

Serge Lutens Daim Blond

17th January 2016

Serge Lutens Daim Blond is a simple pleasure done right. It is a dry, dusty suede lightly decorated with the scent of apricots – not the juicy, sweet flesh of ripe apricots but the desiccated husk of skin when shriveled up to almost nothing. Iris provides the bitter, gray powder, and osmanthus the delicate tannin of apricots and black tea.

It is not in the least bit animalic but there is a lightly musky undertone that conjures up a ghostly image of female skin. When I wear Daim Blond, I imagine Newland Archer peeling back the fine-grained Italian leather glove from Countess Olenska’s wrist and pressing his mouth to her quivering flesh. She’s on the cusp of allowing herself to be ruined. It’s a moment of sensuality written on a such a tiny scale so as not to register to anyone but them, but somehow the restrained, pulled-in nature of the moment and its capacity to unleash the hounds of hell is far sexier than anything more explicit.

Daim Blond smells like a woman’s wrist and the tipping point of desire.

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La Parfumerie Moderne Cuir X

12th January 2016

I have a hankering for La Parfumerie Moderne Cuir X that I just can’t shake. I’m on my third sample of it and the crush is still going strong. But like any crush, ask me to explain it and I can’t.

I mean, if pushed, I’d say it’s a beautiful modulated suede, its hints of rubbery saffraleine perfectly matched by a hint of smoke and a smooth, almost edible note that lands halfway between violet and plum, even though there’s no flowers or fruit in it. It has a modernist structure to it, meaning that it’s been streamlined to survive in space, free of any weighty flowers, powder, amber or resins. If I were to visualize it as a person, it would be Michael Fassbender’s character in Prometheus, David, a sleek android with a ferocious intellect and a perfectly smooth, whip-thin physique. Like David, Cuir X is a dove grey suede glove fitted tightly onto an industrial bone structure.

It’s probably nothing new under the sun. People seem divided into two camps – the “Meh, this is nothing special” camp and the “This is pretty damn special” camp, and neither seem able to articulate their reasons that well. But desire is irrational. I can only tell you that Cuir X wears like a slick of smoked single cream on my skin. It’s sexy. I want to eat myself when I’m wearing it.

But it costs €160. And for that type of investment, it had better be a long-term thing and not just a crush. I wouldn’t buy a horse or marry a man without first looking at his teeth, lifting his forelocks, and doing a thorough inspection of his undercarriage, so I’m going to do the same due diligence with Cuir X.

I mean, who’s to say that my desire for Cuir X isn’t just a flash in the pan? After all, I own many suede or “fine cuir” fragrances and at some point or another, I thought that I couldn’t live without them either. I don’t want to engage in anymore suede bed-hopping. I want a long-term commitment.

So. I’m going to test and re-test all the suede perfumes I own or once tested and wrote off, and if I still love Cuir X above all the others, I will buy it. That is a promise to myself. First of my list is a re-test of Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman by the same perfumer (Marc-Antoine Corticchiato) – I had originally written it off, but if so many people say that Cuir X is basically a modernized snippet of Cuir Ottoman, then I owe it to myself and my wallet to give it another try (seeing as it’s about €40 cheaper).

A friend said that it is 96.5% similar to Cuir de Lancome at the top (which, honestly, it is) but then diverges towards the heart. I can confirm this – despite a similar top note, Cuir de Lancome is more floral and has a soft powder to it that Cuir X does not. But there are other suede perfumes. And lots of time. I have patience and an Excel spreadsheet.

Crushes are unreliable and desire can ebb away as quickly as it comes. Let’s see which way this goes.