Oud Taiwan by Areej Le Dore smells great, but not the ‘perfume’ kind of great. It smells great in the way that certain spaces – a carpenter’s workshop, a fuel court, a supplies closet – smell great because of what they hold. After a brief sinus-clearing Listerine topnote, I smell the inner workings of a car repair shop. There is the smell of metal pistons sliding into cold hollows, cans of gasoline soaking into the porous concrete slab, a two-bar electric heater heating up, and the splutters of a dirty exhaust pipe being cranked up. A furry indole note adds to the chemical – or inorganic – feel of the scent with its rubbery ‘Magic Marker’ twang.
This makes me understand two things. First, that natural materials like indole or camphor can smell like chemicals. Second, that some chemicals just smell incredible. Think of the smell of school glue, the binding of a book, the pages of a magazine, or nail polish.
Oud Taiwan doesn’t smell entirely inorganic, though. The third spike of the wheel – counting the wintergreen mouthwash/Dettol accord and the car shop miasma as the first and second respectively – is an oud oil that smells initially like a funky wolf pelt smeared with toothpaste but increasingly like a stack of horse blankets, pleasantly damp with dander, horse sweat, and once-pissed-upon hay. This adds a mammalian warmth and roundness to the cold, hard steel of the more industrial-smelling accords of the car shop. I say ‘adds’ but in truth, the two accords – one cold and chemical, the other warm and animal – gnash their teeth against each other rather than merge smoothly, which makes for an unsettling effect.
The oud oil that went into Oud Taiwan is warmer and sweeter than the oud accord in the scent, with its nuances of caramelized wood and woodsy-horsey finish. It smells like wool, leather, and skin – not clean per se but not filthy either. Just a lightly exercised animal steaming post-trot with all the other animals in a heated barn in winter.
Where Oud Taiwan differs from its constituent oil is in its hardcore myrrh finish. Fans of myrrh’s bitter, latexy gloom will love the drydown of Oud Taiwan. It smells like Scandinavian licorice rolled in cathedral dust. There is no sparkle to this incense resin. It is severe and moody, the Snapes of the resin world. What’s more, myrrh opens up a hollow space in the scent that throws me for a loop.
It also tires my nose. The myrrh note, coupled with the persistent industrial chemical miasma, which one always finds intoxicating at first but then almost nauseating after sustained exposure to it, begins to wear me down. Something here is overdosed. It drones on, seemingly interminably, which is never good, because the longer an accord goes on, the more time I have to find bones to pick with it.
In short, I think Oud Taiwan smells great, in the way that some places smell great. But while I admire how it was constructed, I did not want to wear it past the testing phase. It doesn’t wear like a perfume, which, um, forgive me for being basic, is how I want to experience a scent.
But in my house, the testing of Oud Taiwan over the course of a week became a family affair, with every member weighing in on it. My husband loved Oud Taiwan because whenever he smells real oud – and there is a significant amount of it here – his jaw tightens and he paws the ground. He says it takes him back to being in a leather store with his father when he was young.
My sense of Oud Taiwan being the scent of a place rather than a perfume is borne out by his comment on the second day of testing, when he noted that it also smells like walking into the family’s old village house near Skadar Lake and breathing in the smells of the salamis hung up to cure from the roof, the smoke from the neighbors clearing the land of scrub, and the soot and dust snaking up every surface – smells that, over time, ingrain themselves into the fabric of a house and turn it into ‘home’.
My teenage son said that, for an oud, it smelled really great and not too animalic, but rather like an old, clean house or stables somewhere desolate. I think what both of them were trying to say was that Oud Taiwan is a whole atmosphere, not just a perfume.
Source of sample: Sent to me free of charge by Russian Adam for review. My opinions are my own.
Cover Image: Photo by Francisco Gonzalez on Unsplash
